Autumn is the season for monochromatic food (you may recall this magazine’s dedication to such joys a few weeks back) and this risotto bianco from Osteria Vibrato, one of London’s trendy new Italian restaurants, has quickly joined the FT food and drink team’s pantheon of beloved beige dishes. In Jay Rayner’s search for the best brown dish, it earned Marina O’Loughlin’s vote: “The beigest thing in the history of beige,” she told him. Nigella Lawson sings its praises too: “Yes, it’s beige — but only to look at.”
You can also count me among its fans, and I’m delighted that the restaurant has shared its recipe with the FT. “This dish leaves nowhere to hide,” says head chef Louis Lingwood. “A deft touch and the quality of ingredients is how to succeed here.”
The other secret is heaps of butter and parmesan, which can feel a little naughty in a home kitchen. But, as Nigella says, we need to take our pleasures where we can in life.
Tip
Make the effort to procure aged risotto rice, which can be purchased online or found at speciality stores. The resting period stabilises the starch and strengthens the grain, which deepens the flavour.
Substitution
Standard supermarket risotto rice can be used instead; however, Louis says it is unlikely to achieve the same result.
To drink
Louis suggests a richer white wine, like a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, or a lighter red, such as a delicate Chiavennasca di Valtellina or Langhe Nebbiolo.
Osteria Vibrato’s risotto bianco
Serves 2
| Quantity | Ingredients |
|---|---|
| ½ | echalion (banana shallot) |
| 60g | unsalted butter |
| 150g | Riso Buono Carnaroli Gran Riserva or another aged risotto rice |
| 50ml | white wine |
| 100ml | quality veal or chicken stock |
| 400-500ml | warm water |
| 80g | 30-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated |
A short demonstration of cooking a risotto, starting with frying diced shallots, adding rice, a bit of wine, and stock and water bit by bit, finally adding parmesan cheese and cubes of butter.
Finely dice the shallot. Warm a pan over medium-low heat with 15g of the butter.
Add the diced shallot to the pan and slowly sweat it with a little bit of salt until soft and free from any colour.
Add the rice and white wine and cook until the rice absorbs the wine. Then add the stock and water bit by bit so the rice absorbs the liquid, cooking on medium high for 11 minutes or so, until the rice is al dente. Stir regularly so the rice doesn’t catch on the bottom of the pan.
After 11 minutes, turn the heat back down to medium low, add the rest of the butter and the parmesan and stir in vigorously until creamy. Add a tiny pinch of salt and serve straight away on a warm plate.
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