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My secret stash: pro skiers on where to avoid the crowds

After a lifetime of powder hunting, six freeriders and ski-industry insiders reveal where they go for fresh tracks

Liv Sansoz prepares to enjoy some pristine powder © Aurelie Morrison
Tom Robbins
Published

Camille Jaccoux

Co-founder of ski brand Black Crows
Black-and-white cut-out portrait of a man wearing dark sunglasses

My base is Chamonix but sometimes you have to escape — escape the crowds, the bad weather or simply give in to the desire to go and see somewhere else. And this somewhere else is not necessarily very far: Les Marécottes is just over the Swiss border in the Trient Valley (you can leave from Chamonix by train with your skis in hand). It’s a very small resort, only three lifts, but what matters here is not the size of the ski area, it’s the terrain. Up high, the mountain opens into a kind of large natural cirque, wide, playful, obvious. And when you drop towards the bottom, there is the forest — a long, deep forest. This is skiing. verticalp-lesmarecottes.ch


Ingrid Backstrom

Professional skier
Black-and-white cut-out portrait of a smiling woman wearing a ski helmet

At Alyeska Resort, in Girdwood, Alaska, you can ski off Alaskan peaks overlooking the Cook Inlet, on some really steep runs when conditions allow. The remoteness and the Alaskan weather keep the crowds at bay, and there’s night skiing off the tram a few nights a week, which is magical. alyeskaresort.com

A cable car with mountains behind
The cable car at Alyeska Resort © Matt Hage

Mike Douglas

Freeskiing pioneer, co-designer of the Salomon 1080
Black-and-white cut-out portrait of a smiling man wearing a baseball cap and glasses

The first place that comes to mind is San Martino di Castrozza in Italy. It’s a lovely village tucked away in the south-west corner of the Dolomites, well off the beaten path of Cortina, Marmolada and Canazei. It’s got all the beauty and grandeur without the crowds. We skied untracked powder for days off the impressive Rosetta tram. At one point, some locals approached us excitedly. We weren’t sure what was happening at first, but it turned out they were just happy to meet freeriders from the outside world. sanmartino.com

Snowboarders at San Martino di Castrozza © Roberto Bragotto

Elyse Saugstad

Professional skier
Black-and-white cut-out portrait of a woman wearing a knitted beanie

I would pick Montafon in Austria — a great alternative to St Anton. Montafon is a valley in the westernmost part of the Austrian Alps and includes several linked resorts. It has easily accessible, incredibly fun freeride terrain and very few crowds. The elevation is high enough that you will always find snow, but it’s not on the radar as a major ski destination so you can find fresh tracks several days after a storm. montafon.at

A skier on an off-piste slope
Freeriding in Montafon © Michael Müller

Liv Sansoz

World champion climber, skier and paraglider
Black-and-white cut-out portrait of a person wearing a beanie and ski goggles

My secret stash is Sainte-Foy Tarentaise. Sitting quietly between giants like Val d’Isère, Tignes and Les Arcs, it has only a handful of lifts — and that’s exactly the point. While everyone queues next door, here you find empty slopes, some of the best tree skiing in the Alps, and powder that stays fresh for days. It’s a return to skiing the way I remember it: no crowds, no fuss, just a small mountain village and the pleasure of making your own tracks. Don’t tell too many people. saintefoy-tarentaise.com

A snow-covered alpine village surrounded by dense forest with tall mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
The resort of Sainte-Foy Tarentaise © Tristan Persais

Misha Gopaul

Founder of Fatmap
Black-and-white cut-out portrait of a man wearing a helmet and glasses

I grew up skiing in Nax Mont-Noble, in Switzerland’s Valais, one of those magical places that’s barely changed in 30 years. The mountain faces north, so the snow stays cold longer than in Crans-Montana, its more illustrious neighbour on the opposite side of the valley. There are just four lifts: even on a powder day, there are rarely more than a couple of cars in the car park midweek. There is exceptional mellow powder skiing through the trees as well as plenty of steeper, more adventurous terrain higher up. Afterwards, the authentic Alpage Gauthier has raclette and other local goodness to help you recharge for the next run. naxmontnoble.ch

An empty piste in Nax Mont-Noble, and a view over the Rhône Valley © Alamy

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